Bahia de los Angeles Baja California
(This was written in 1998 and prices and things have changed. It is still a charming town on a fishing bay.)
By Dorothy Bell
Photographs are By Bill Bell
Bahia de Los Angeles is a place to kick back and relax. Located on the Sea of Cortes along the coast of Baja California this community is a great place to relax, fish, kayak or hike.
Bahia de los Angeles It gives me goose bumps every time. The first glimpse of the Sea of Cortez from the road heading into Bahia de los Angeles is one of the best vistas on the Baja. The rugged mountain desert with scrubby desert and tall cirros and cardon cacti, contrast with the deep turquoise blues of the bays water and the reddish rust color of the islands and lands near the waters edge. Goosebumps because it is so beautiful and so rugged yet fragile.
Bahia is small. It doesn’t have a grocery store larger than a 7-11 back home. Electricity is turned on and off at infrequently intervals – depending how the municipal generator is working. Municipal water is horded by families and commercial enterprises as the municipal water is only turned on once, maybe twice a week. Telephone is via a satellite as is the local internet café.
Yet even without those basic services as we know them, Bahia’s charm for visitors is the portal to the Sea of Cortez and all the activities that come with frequently calm waters with abundant fish. Kayaking is popular in Bahia, every motel or RV park seems to rent them out at reasonable daily rates of $15 a day or so depending on your bargaining skills. Fishing trips can easily be arranged too – best to arrange your own group of 4 fishers and get a boat for $150 to 180 per day.
A town square has a large bandstand in the center and like many Mexican zocalos, faces the municipal hall. A good clean clinic is beside this zocalo with a 24 hour physician available at a nominal charge. No it doesn’t have all the latest equipment, but the Doctors are on “duty years” to pay back Mexican society for their education and are fresh out of Medical school and residency. On our last visit, the doctor was raised and educated until grade 12 in San Diego. Of course he spoke perfect English and was very helpful with any questions we had – either medical or of the area.
The local museum is a must both inside and out. The garden is of regional design and names all those cacti and plants you were curious about on your drive in. The museum itself is alive with local history and is a testament to the proud founding families that built this community.
The two hotel anchors in the area, Villa Vita and Guillermo’s, both offer restaurants, bars, rooms and RV spaces in town. The camping is basic. Often the services don’t work and in the case of Guillermo’s, the view is obstructed by permanent RV cabanas that dominate the waters edge. Dry camping is available in front of the motel rooms – and provides a view and access to water and the restaurant. Camping favorites though are out of town to either the north or the south along dirt/sand roads in various states of repair.
There are a few corner stores where you can purchase supplies including frozen meats and fish but best to bring what you need down with you as the electricity at the best of times can be uncertain. Fresh fish can be purchased from fishermen coming back in the afternoons. This can be at different times due to tides which even with the boat launches can make it difficult to pull the boats out of the water.
Bottled water is sold everywhere and many places now have water purifiers in their stores where you fill up your own container. Bahia de los Angeles is the place for tranquil days and authentic traditional village life. It isn’t glamorous or flashy and holds a particular charm that is mixed with healthy doses of substance and resilience.
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