Scammon’s Lagoon (Laguna Ojo de Liebre)
Baja California Sur
by Bill and Dorothy Bell
Drive
the Transpeninsular Highway 1 down through
the Baja, just past the border of the States of Baja California and head
south into Baja California Sur past the town of Guerrero Negro to KM 208. It
is well marked. Take the access road of approximately 25 miles on good flat
dirt/gravel past and over salt flats and the access gate. ( These salt flats
are the largest natural outdoor salt facility in the world; ˝ owned by the
Mitsubishi Corporation and ˝ by the Mexican Government)
You
have arrived at an experience of a lifetime.
Scammon’s Lagoon or Laguna Ojo de Liebre ( Spanish
for Eye of the jackrabbit) is located in the largest Biosphere Reserve in Latin America. The gray whales migrate annually from the Bering and Chukchi
seas in the Artic to the Lagoon – some 6000 miles - as part of their
biological cycle. Scammon’s is the primary calving lagoon in Baja.
The whales live
here during the winter in these protected calm waters, giving birth before
the long trek back to the north. The warm waters and shallow bays are a
perfect breeding ground for these magnificent mammals.
Charles
Melville Scammon, an American whaling captain, discovered the entrance to a
lagoon in 1857 and proceeded to hunt – some say slaughter – the graceful
mammals for their oil, whalebone, and meat. The population of whales at that
time was estimated to be around 30,000 and by 1869 the population dwindled
to less than 2,000 – near extinction. In 1972 the Mexican Government created
the Gray Whale Sanctuary. After International treaties and a concerted
effort to ensure this species survival, the population is now estimated at
20,000 with an estimated 1,500 whales making Scammon’s their winter home.
From
the end of December to late March, tours can be arranged from Guerrero Negro
(approximately $45) for a 4 hour exploration of the inner areas and the
Lagoon with an authorized guide. Or you can drive the gravel and salt flat
road yourself and take a guided panga ride for 1 ˝ hours right at the lagoon
entrance for $25 per adult and $15 per child.
Private
boats and kayaks are prohibited from entering the waters and only licenced
tour boats are allowed. It is protected by SEMARNAP, the Mexican Secretary
of Environmental and Natural Resources and Fisheries and is a restricted
sanctuary for migratory birds ( Canadian Geese, fishing eagle, white
pelican, cormorants to name few) and marine mammals. It is recognized by
UNESCO’ Man and Biosphere program.
The boat
tour will amaze you. Each boat motors out to the mouth of the lagoon with
guide and a dozen or so other passengers.
Bring your camera! You get to see whale after whale. Some bob
along the water and others dive straight up into the air with their noses
aimed at the sky- then sink vertically back down into the waters. Slowly.
Meticulously. Blowing.
An
Experience of a lifetime.
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